
Rainbow Over Tulik
August 11, 2006
Here it is, a month to the date that’s been hijacked by its moment in history, and it’s déjà vu all over again. Another terrorist plot, this one apparently nipped in the bud. I’m on the way to Alaska, waiting in line to be checked by security at LaGuardia Airport, shoes off, belt removed, watch and change in the plastic bin, fully expecting to be given the once over for carrying no less than two heavy hitter recorders and other sorts of electronic gear. I don’t even register a blip on the surveillance system.
But the young woman next to me in line is another matter. Carrying lipstick, hand crème and other forms of contraband, she fits the current terrorist profile and is thoroughly searched. Just when you think that life isn’t quite upside down, someone turns the crank. I imagine the airport check in lines of the future where we go through security wearing hospital gowns, or else get CAT scanned – like the Mars bound Schwarzenegger in Total Recall - down to the bone.
Flying into Fairbanks is like diving into a marshmallow. When land appears, the impression is that swatches of trees have been scraped away to accommodate a town.
August 12, 2006
Welcome to Alaska, whose unofficial state license plate is a cracked front windshield. You see em everywhere; it’s like a driver’s merit badge - the inevitable result of gravel highways spewing the odd pebble when those semis go rolling along.
Reunited with the other MBL fellows – Molly, Mark, Mary and Anton; lots of esprit de corps, sort of like the science journalist musketeers. We spend the morning visiting a number of field experiments near Fairbanks. One has to do with taking two small sections of wetlands — lowering the water level in one, while raising it in another, and measuring the effects on the growth of plants within. Among the questions being asked: is there an increase or decrease in the amount of decomposition of the organic matter? Is there an increase or decrease in the amount of carbon that’s being released back into the environment? If our climate is indeed warming – as so many indications seem to confirm – then these are the kinds of questions that will help us predict the future of our environment. The more carbon – in the form of carbon dioxide - that gets pumped back into the atmosphere, the more greenhouse gas, and the more warming.
August 13
It’s a twelve hour drive from Fairbanks, north past the Arctic Circle (major photo op), past the tree line and the last lonely spruce, through the Barrow range of mountains at the very tippy top of AK, to the north slope and Toolik Lake Long Term Environmental Research Center. Our road runs side by side with Alaska oil pipeline; which runs alternatively above and below ground – easier to maintain. The Toolik Lake facility- and the road – owes their existence to the pipeline, environmental research being a kind of dividend, a give back for pumping all that oil and impacting that much pristine territory.
Our visit coincides with British Petroleum stopping production in it’s oil fields in Prudhoe Bay, about a hundred miles north of here on the Arctic Ocean. We’re scheduled to pay a visit later this week.
Although there’s talk of a grizzly sighting on the CB, we see very little wildlife until we’re near Toolik lake – a few ground squirrels, some mountain sheep, and then – caribou grazing near the highway. One beautiful male with an impressive rack is being stalked by a bow hunter as we drive by.
August 14th
A long hike over the tundra, which is a sometimes squishy affair, like trying to navigate through a landscape of bushy sponges. Another suite of experiments which try, through manipulating parts of the landscape, to predict some of the consequences of a warming world, with increased amounts of nutrients (such as nitrogen and phosphorus) entering into the ecosystem. How did the nutrients get there? In part, as a result from melting permafrost (frozen soil), dissolving some of its mineral content into the groundwater. Another source is atmospheric – from the burning of fossil fuels. So if we take a section of ground, and we warm it up by constructing a mini-greenhouse, what will happen? What if we add nutrients? What if we decrease the amount of sunlight? What if we increase the amount of snowfall? Interestingly enough, the results of some of these experiments run counter to the expectations of scientists, generating more questions and experiments.
Next – Fishing for Science

I realize the point here is not to sound like I’m having too good a time. Perhaps a few words about how cold the Kuparik River was and how most of the day was spent casting and losing those barb-less lures. Barbless because the fish (Arctic grayling)
are caught, kept over night in a holding pen – in the river – and then weighed, measured and tagged.
The tagging process is very cool. A small capsule (even tinier than a Tylenol) is injected into the fish’s abdomen.

To detect the presence of the tag and to read its unique number signature, the fish is scanned with a handheld device, similar to a supermarket’s barcode reader. It beeps if the fish already has a tag, and indicates the number on the screen.
This means a little more work for the scientists – since there’s no way shy of scanning to tell if the fish has already been tagged, but it’s good for the fish, since there’s no drag from an external tag. Juvenile fish are given a small tag, however, which is attached to a thin line and threaded through the fishes’ skin behind the dorsal fin.

I was working with researcher Heidi Golden, who is, in turn, assisting Linda Deegan, the principal investigator of this project. They constructed a weir (resembling a plastic chain link fence) across the river to temporarily halt the upstream migration of the grayling, so they can be caught by intrepid anglers like me, and then tagged.

So after a day of fruitless fishing downstream, Heidi took pity on me and let me cast near the weir, which – at least in the evening hours of this particular day - turned out to be something like shooting fish in a barrel. Every cast was a strike – and the grayling were roughly 16�? long. As if in payment for living a fisherman’s dream, was that black flies chose this very moment to make their appearance. Although they weren’t biting, these swarms of tiny flies were a prodigious nuisance, finding their way into every available orifice. Heidi seemed oblivious to the onslaught and claimed they tasted sweet. I draped a mosquito net-hat over my head and fished through the net-scape darkly. Twelve fish in twenty minutes – including the time it took to haul the fish to the holding pin. Honest. Ask Heidi.
One of the findings of the grayling team is that the older fish thrive in seasons when there is a high water flow in the river; younger fish have a much lower growth rate in these high-flow years. When there is a lower flow rate, the younger fish do better. The Arctic climate is highly variable and the grayling have apparently adapted to do well in a variety of conditions. But what if - due to climate change - there were a number of consecutive years in which the grayling had do survive in a low flow situation? Some researchers hypothesize that this scenario could spell doom for the species.
Visit the Arctic Long Term Ecological Research Site.